On a warm day, with the soft chiming of sailboat rigging next to the outdoor deck, you almost feel like you're in a cafe on the Mediterranean.

The service is friendly. The dress code is casual. The food is good.

The atmosphere on the deck - at the east end of the Regatta Point marina complex - is relaxed, with Zorba the Greek and other Greek-inspired music providing the backdrop. An awning next to the outdoor bar and a nearby arbor provide plenty of shade. Most tables outside offer a relaxing view of the boats in the marina and the Manatee River.

Ferns, hibiscus and hanging baskets of pothos add to the charm.

On a recent visit, I took a co-worker, and tried to see the restaurant through new eyes.

The meal started with a basket of dinner rolls (apparently home-made, but not warm) and crackers. But we were here to eat Greek food.

We ordered the flaming cheese appetizer ($5.50), partly for the spectacle. A large square of cheese is topped with brandy, set afire, then doused with a wedge of lemon. (This proved tricky for our waiter because it was a breezy day. He was a good sport, and I don't think he got hurt.) The cheese was warm, soft and tasty - enough for three or four people to share. But order it only if you like salty food - this cheese, called saganaki, is too salty for some people's taste.

We also ordered the grouper fingers appetizer ($5.50). This is a generous serving, with six large strips of breaded fish. Tartar sauce and a lemon wedge are served on the side. Ours was a little dry and chewy.

We sampled a bowl of seafood chowder, which was tomato based and hearty.

My companion chose the spinach pie ($5.45) for her lunchtime entree. It was creamy, with onion, spinach and feta cheese filling tucked inside a large, flaky, phyllo dough pocket. With a Greek salad on the side (no potato salad in this version), it makes a satisfying light lunch.

I ordered the gyros sandwich, which has lots of seasoned beef and lamb wrapped in a pita with lettuce, tomato, onion and a good cucumber sauce. The sandwich comes with a large order of french fries, making for a more filling lunch.

For dessert, I had a piece of baklava ($1.50) which was nutty, sweet and syrupy as it should be.
I brought a bowl of the homemade rice pudding (the house specialty, $1.75) back to the office for another colleague to sample. A rice pudding fan, she found it rich and creamy with just the right amount of cinnamon. She was glad to find the rice wasn't overcooked, a common flaw in rice pudding. (Sorry, raisin fans, no dried grapes in this version.)

I've eaten dinner at the Riverside Cafe on one occasion, and found the entrees to be good and reasonably priced. Several seafood dishes are on the menu, and the crab-stuffed grouper ($12.95) rivals more expensive versions at some other area restaurants.