I met my friend at the restaurant early on a weekday and found a table right by the water (almost every seat in the house offers a great river view.) The wide-ranging menu reflects the Greek heritage of father-and-son owners Vasily "Bill" and Dean Christopoulos, with pita sandwiches and gyros holding spots next to seafood platters, Black Angus burgers and classic deli sandwiches. I was tempted by the prospect of a late breakfast (served until 12:30 p.m. each day), but ultimately decided on a strictly seafood affair.

Our knowledgable and friendly server was quick to get us started, and after we ordered, a summer deluge blew in, forcing us inward from our shoreside table. Then, a remarkable thing happened: The nearly empty waterfront deck began to fill up with dozens of regular lunchtime customers clutching umbrellas and braving the storm to get their Riverside fix. Despite the wet weather, most diners still chose a seat on the patio over the air-conditioned inside dining room.

After a very brief wait, our server brought us our Buffalo calamari ($8.50) as an appetizer. It was as close to the perfect calamari platter as I've had: lightly breaded, with a texture that wasn't too tough or chewy, and touched off with a tangy buffalo sauce that paired well with ranch and bleu cheese dressing. The dish was presented nicely on a simple bed of lettuce, and there was enough left over to take home.

Next came a simple, but hearty and delicious Greek salad with feta cheese, kalamata olives, cucumbers, tomatoes and onions ($7.95). The flavorful house special Greek vinaigrette dressing perked up my tastebuds for the main course.

By the time the entrees came, the rain had subsided and the restaurant was nearly full. I was almost drooling over my fresh flounder stuffed with crab meat which came with a side of yellow corn and crispy, tasty french fries ($14.95). The fish, served with a light hollandaise, was tender and falling apart with every forkful.

My dining companion had a French dip sandwich served with a mouthwatering natural au jus ($7.50). We were both pleased, not only with the delicate sliced beef and fresh French bread, but also with the real mashed potatoes and savory brown gravy served on the side.

Unfortunately, time constraints and an overstuffed belly kept us from dessert, and the weather kept us from enjoying a walk out to the docks on the waterfront. These are things, along with live music, Greek wine and a juicy hamburger, that I'll look forward to for my next trip to Riverside Cafe for a casual, family-friendly dinner.